Now I know we’re a bedroom furniture company but I thought I’d share this with you anyway despite the fact that it is clearly kitchen related. As many of you will know, it’s now that time of year: the daffodils have just gone over, the trees have a light fuzz of green, birdsong fills the evening air and the wife has planned a series of DIY shock and awe campaigns for the each of the bank holiday weekends from Easter until August!
Our very own version of Desert Storm I shall rename Melamine Storm! We decided (and you know how I use the word ‘we’) that it was time to redecorate the kitchen. New tiles, new floor, and forty gallons of Farrow & Ball white paint. The final thing in the mix was a bit of extra storage for the kitchen. Now, our kitchen units were out of date and discontinued so we popped off to a certain well-known DIY store and bought the nearest thing we could to match in with our old stuff.
Now the tiles are down and the grout has gone off, it’s time to build the new cupboards. All in all reasonably good fun. It came in kit form, and after following instructions carefully to avoid accidentally building a kitchen shed, the first cupboard was up. I’m not that pleased. It made me realise just how unsatisfying it is to look at something synthetic. There was no natural beauty or craftsmanship. Each day when I look at the chests of drawers in our bedroom, I feel pleased with the way it all looks and feels, especially as we’ve had our furniture for years. The change in colour is about acquiring a beautiful natural patina rather than a yellowing with age that you get with tired kitchen cupboards. Even when our oak stuff does need a little perk-up, we just treat it with some danish oil, which is a pleasure in itself.
As far as I’m concerned, melamine, particle board and MDF belong in the same place as Divans!
Posts Tagged ‘bedroom furniture’
Quality products
Tuesday, April 27th, 2010Dodgy Divans Part II
Monday, April 19th, 2010Dodgy Divans Part II
So, seeing as we’re on the subject of divans I might as well get the rest of the moans out of the way. In for a penny, in for a pound I suppose!
The flaw in the plan
Once, as a child, my parents bought me a brand-new bed, yes, a divan. It was a divan with a difference, the top section lifted open on some sort of sprung mechanism which meant that the entire bottom half of the bed could be used as storage. This was just great, providing you were happy for your ten-year-old son to empty his mattress and bedclothes over the floor every time he wanted to get something out!
A major ‘drawer’ back (groan)
So, we learnt from the flip-top bed experience and moved on. The next step was a more sedate approach involving drawers in a divan base, no more mattress slippage! This time, we found that, not only was the space severely limited, but also, the drawer bottoms were flimsy and generally collapsed once a few blankets had been put in – then they were impossible to open, even when you had managed to claw you way through the fabric hell-hole known as a valance (though I think I’ve already bemoaned valances in a previous post)
Let’s take a look at what we could have done (say in the style of Jim Bowen)
Let’s imagine what life would have been like with a lovely wooden bed. Firstly, we could have done away with any need for flip-top or sliding drawer contraptions. As a child, under the bed would have been a great place to stash a giant bag of lego (which I’m reliably told happens every night at legoland, Windsor). But secondly, there is also a great  ‘grown-up’ solution for neat freaks like me. A couple of beautiful wooden underbed drawers on castors would have been perfect. The bottoms are made out of decent timber, which means they don’t sag and collapse. They slide out easily avoiding the flip-top/drawer collapse/valance issues, and finally, they look great. Not only that, if you ever decide to change your bed and if you buy an akka wooden bed, we don’t see why you’d want to) you don’t have to change your storage at the same time. Simples.
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Dodgy Divans
Thursday, March 25th, 2010Looking back the other day through old photographs (when I say old, I mean 1980s old) I noticed just how much home furniture has changed. I’ll be honest with you, my parents still have the wood effect units and melamine wardrobes but most other folk have moved on. The thing I noticed most was the difference in the beds. Every bed in the house was a divan and boy, were they ugly! To make it even worse, they dressed them up in slightly uglier flouncy valances, which seem to defy all laws of taste and interior design decency. Just what were we doing? Instead of a beautiful wooden bed, something which could have defined a room or provided a focal point, we have essentially a wooden box wrapped in fabric. Nothing could more clearly say, ‘this room is not important to me’ more than a divan bed. It seems that bedrooms were just functional; get in, lights off, sleep, wake-up, get dressed, get out! Nowadays bedrooms are where we can wind down, chill-out or lose a Sunday morning. Who would want to do that in a divan when you could be looking at a lovely piece of oiled walnut? I say it’s time for a divan amnesty…without fear of reprise or being mocked by the neighbours we should all be allowed to clear out these sleeping disaster zones once and for all and replace them with something wooden and beautiful!! Come on, chuck ‘em out!!
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Dressing tables
Friday, March 5th, 2010So you’re thinking of purchasing a new dressing table. There are a few things you need to know before you buy to get yourself the best quality and the best deal. And, although you might think dressing tables a luxury, a good one can help reduce bedroom clutter – so they’re actually practical, too!
Dressing rooms are great (just think, a whole space dedicated to grooming and dressing up!) and a functional and fabulous dressing table is a luxury no lady can do without.
Mirrored dressing tables are everywhere at the moment but they are a sexy alternative to some more traditional wooden units. If you do prefer wood, try something like walnut, which will look more retro than rustic.
Not everyone’s a fan of the boudoir look, but dressing tables needn’t be prissy. A well-designed bureau or console – anything that you can tuck your legs underneath and that won’t look too officey – can work just as well, if accessorised properly. A good mirror, comfy chair and tabletop light are an absolute must.
How to dress your bed.
Thursday, February 25th, 2010How to Dress a Bed
A bed is the biggest piece of furniture in your bedroom. It’s important that not only is it comfortable to sleep in, but it looks good too. And being so large, a bed also offers a great opportunity to add your identity and make a real style statement. We’ve included some on dressing a bed below to help you when considering what duvet cover, pillow cases, bed throws and cushions to buy for your bed.
Which Duvet Cover?
Below is our choice of the top duvet covers and best deals available at the moment. But there are plenty more duvet covers to choose from. See our sections on different duvet cover colours, sizes and material.
Which colour for the duvet cover?
The great thing about duvet covers is that you can have a few of them and change them regularly. So choosing the colour for bed linen isn’t like choosing the colour to paint your walls – it’s easy to change, and as often as you like too.
Strong, bold colours are quite fashionable these days, such as chocolate brown, rich purple or crimson red. These colours will work fine if you have a larger bedroom. For smaller rooms, these strong colours will be too dominant and make the room seem even smaller. For smaller rooms, it’s best to stick with softer colours. This isn’t to say that it will be boring – quite the opposite once you’ve added cushions and bed throws – but just that a large single block of strong colour in a small room can often be too oppressive and make the room feel smaller.
People like to give a lot of meaning to colours and how they make us feel. Typically red is a passionate colour, brown is earthy, green is natural… But the truth in design terms is that you have to have a bed colour that you can enjoy – not just because it “means” something, but because to you it looks good.
A duvet cover colour should also be a colour that works well with other colours that you might include on your bed, such as bed throws, pillows and cushions. So for example you might want something that contrasts well with the other items of bedding, or complements these other colours. Or perhaps you simply want a paler cream or even white duvet cover that can act as a blank canvas, to be dressed with all sorts of splashes of colour later with some rich and bright cushions and bed throws.
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One way to consider the colours to use for your bed is to choose a “base” colour that you like, for example lilac. Then you can add a variety of colours in a similar vein – some darker, some lighter, some contrasting more strongly – to build up an intricate and colourful picture.Â
What about bed throws?
A bed throw is a great way of bringing life and detail to your bed. In fact a good bed throw in the right colour and material can change the bed completely. Consider either complementary or contrasting colours to your duvet cover. Also, give some thought to the kind of material bed throw you want. Most cotton duvet covers have little texture, so a bed throw is a great chance to add some extra feel to a bed, perhaps with a bed throw in chenille, cashmere, mohair, velvet or even silk, either in a chunky knit or quilted style.
Bed throws are also sometimes known as bed runners or bed spreads. A bed throw is simple to add to your room. Simply lay it across the bed, from side to side rather than top to bottom. Bed throws look best when put across the end of the bed, around three quarters of the way down the bed. You can even add more than one bed throw to bring more layers and texture to your bed.
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Pillows and Pillow cases
Pillow cases can be very useful to add and develop the overall look of the bed. Many duvet covers come with matching pillow cases (either as a duvet set or to be bought separately). These can be great and suit your needs perfectly, but don’t be afraid to try out colours that contrast with your duvet cover, or at least pillow cases in darker or lighter tones. Many people like 2 pillows, in which case you have 2 opportunities to add more colour to your bed (or 4 opportunities in the case of double beds). So for example, choose a patterned pillow case (striped or floral) to site on top of a plain, darker coloured pillow case. In short, pillows are a great chance to show your design skills, so don’t just opt for the obvious, matching duvet and pillow case set.
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Bed Cushions
Although you probably won’t sleep on them, cushions can be great to add more interest to a bed. Pillows will do this, of course, but cushions can be more interesting by coming in different shapes and sizes to the pillows. Plus, a few more cushions means that extra colour, shape and even texture will come further down the bed. Why leave a large flat space between the pillows and the end of the bed when there are so many great pillows and bed throws to be used!
Many of the bed linen retailers are aware how popular cushions in the bedroom are these days and offer a great choice in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and in a range of colours and materials to suit all tastes.
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Wardrobes
Monday, February 22nd, 2010Tips on Wooden Wardrobes and Cupboard Designs
A bedroom wardrobe
or a cupboard is the second most priority after bed. In fact, cupboard designs are given more attention in the room’s layout or bedroom remodeling than even beds. The wooden cupboard with traditional doors are still there in spite of large number of people going for modern cupboards with sliding doors and walk in wardrobes though the designs for such cupboards have undergone tremendous changes. All said and done, modern wooden wardrobe is a representation of beauty. However, if the functionality of the wardrobe is not kept in consideration, the purpose is lost. If you are up to a custom wardrobe, here are some tips to properly design your wardrobe and closets.
- The traditional door wardrobes have multiple doors. Use this space by having storage solutions behind each wardrobe door. It can be anything from rails to drawers and shelves.
- For the main section of cupboards, combine all- long drop rails, short drops, drawers and shelves of different widths and heights according to your requirements. For example, if you wear jeans all the time, then get more shelves than hanging space and if you mostly wear long dresses, then go for more hanging spaces.
- If you are fond of collecting footwear, get more shelves at lower part. You can even go for sliding shoe trays that can hold many pairs of shoes per shelf.
- Get handy sized drawers for your different storage needs – from jewelery to sweaters, blankets or bed linen. Keep the blanket drawer enough deep to store the things properly. If you like to collect watches, get a drawer of appropriate size with divisions.
- If you opt for sliding door wardrobe, then match the interior segments to the number of sliding doors. For example, three doors should have three or two interior segments to ensure easy opening of all the drawers.
- You can make the closets and wardrobes more beautiful transforming them into a mirror wall by using sliding mirrored doors. It will also save space that could have taken by the dressing table.
- Ensure that the slider mechanism works properly. A sliding door which comes off its tracks is a pain.
- If you prefer a walk-in wardrobe, keep the point number two in view and combine the hanging spaces, shelves and drawers as per your needs.
- Allow at least a meter from the ground for hanging jackets otherwise your clothes will keep dragging along the floor and collect dust.
- Try not to cover the clothes rails and shelves with doors in the walk-in wardrobes. These wardrobes are quite small rooms. If you have to open doors you will make the space more small. Instead of having doors, keep it open and dust regularly.
How to make the most of your bedroom
Thursday, February 18th, 2010With the addition of televisions, desks and exercise equipment to bedrooms, there is a greater constraint on available space in the room. There are many creative solutions to dealing with a lack of space. When planning your bedroom, it is important to maximize the space you have to deal with. Whether you just have a lot of stuff or your room is small, creative organizing will help to make the most of the room you have.
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There are many ways to save space simply by the calculated positioning of your bed in the room. In a limited space, one idea is to shift your bed lengthwise against a wall to create a daybed, thus allowing extra room for more furniture, like a coffee table or some chairs.
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In a small space, prioritize the pieces of furniture for the room. By deciding what’s more important, whether it’s a big impressive bed or a lot of space for storage, the room is better able to fit your specific needs. For example, if you’re a person who has a lot of books or videotapes that you wish to keep in your room, a good solution would be finding a bedside table that also serves as a bookshelf.
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If extra shelves are not needed, but drawer space is using a small chest of drawers for a bedside table could also be a good solution. Using that specific piece of furniture as a table and either shelves or drawers to store things, the potential of the space is maximized.
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Storage can also be accomplished by a large chest at the end of the bed for example a blanket box, which could also serve as a place to sit with the simple addition of a cushion. Underneath the bed is also a storage place that should not be overlooked for underbed drawers which could help free up more space within the room for other things.
Wooden Bedslats
Wednesday, February 10th, 2010Bed slats may need to be replaced after a few years of using a bed. When bed slats are not purchased from a bedding store, they may be cut from lumber available at most local home centers. It is less expensive to cut new bed slats from inexpensive lumber than to purchase bed slats from a bedding store.
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1.                Bed slats may be cut from ¾ inches by 3 ½ inches lumber , which is available from most major home center stores. Do not use wood that is thinner than ¾ inches since it will not be thick enough to provide the support required for the box spring. Wood that is thicker than ¾ inches may be used for beds that require additional support based on the weight of the occupant of the bed. Wood that is less than 3 ½ inches wide may be used for bed slats. However, position the bed slats so there is ½ inches less room between the slats than the slats are wide. For example, 3 ½-inch bed slats should be spaced no more than 3 inches apart for proper support of the box spring. Measure the width of the bed and choose wood that is longer than the width of the bed and cut to size.
Species
2.                Pine, cherry, mahogany or any species of wood can be used for bed slats. Pine is the least expensive. However, the species of wood chosen for bed slats may be chosen to match the wood the bed is made from.
Finish
3.                Select wood that has been sanded or sand the wood to reduce splinters. The splinters may cut the fabric lining on the bottom of the box spring which can allow dust mites, fleas or other undesirable pests access to the inside of the box spring. The wood that is used for bed slats does not have to be stained or sealed buy you may finish the wood to match the bed. Be sure the finish is thoroughly dry before installing the new bed slats.
Placement
4.                If the wood chosen for bed slats has a bow, or curve, place the curve so the high side is up. The weight of the box spring and mattress will help to push the curve down. If the curve is placed so the new slat dips, there will be less support and more strain on the box spring.
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Leather Types
Sunday, January 24th, 2010Leather types
In general, leather is sold in four forms:
• Full-grain leather refers to the upper section of a hide that previously contained the epidermis and hair, but were removed from the hide/skin. Full-grain refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) in order to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains in its natural state allowing the best fiber strength and durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural patina over time, with some cracking and splitting. The finest leather furniture and footwear are made from full-grain leather. For these reasons, only the best raw hide is used to create full-grain leather. One way to test if leather is full-grain is to lightly scratch its surface with your nail. If it leaves a lighter-colored streak, it’s full-grain. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.
• Top-grain leather is a misnomer: it gives the false impression that it is “top” quality. In fact, full-grain is the highest quality. Top-grain leather is the second-highest quality. Its surface has been sanded and refinished. As a result, it has a colder, plastic feel, less breathability, and will not develop a natural patina. However, it does have 2 advantages over full-grain leather: it is typically less expensive, and has greater resistance to stains.
• Corrected-grain leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather are of inferior quality that do not meet the high standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected and an artificial grain applied. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.
• Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (Bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is “fuzzy” on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. For example, in one operation, leather finish is applied to one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo is one of the trade names for this product. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not a true form of suede.
The International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemist Societies has a glossary of leather terms that can be found at IULTCS.
Other less-common leathers include:
• Buckskin or brained leather is a tanning process that uses animal brains or other fatty materials to alter the leather. The resulting supple, suede-like hide is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting.
• Patent leather is leather that has been given a high-gloss finish. The original process was developed in Newark, New Jersey, by inventor Seth Boyden in 1818. Patent leather usually has a plastic coating.
• Shagreen is also known as stingray skin/leather. Applications used in furniture production date as far back as the art deco period. The word “shagreen” originates from France and is commonly confused with a shark skin and stingray skin combination.
• Vachetta leather is used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags, popularized by Louis Vuitton. The leather is left untreated and is therefore susceptible to water and stains. Sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade, called a patina.
• Slink is leather made from the skin of unborn calves. It is particularly soft, and is valued for use in making gloves.
• Deerskin is one of the toughest leathers, partially due to adaptations to their thorny and thicket filled habitats. Deerskin has been prized in many societies including indigenous Americans. Most modern deer skin is no longer procured from the wild, with deer farms breeding the animals specifically for the purpose of their skins. Large quantities are still tanned from wild deer hides in historic tanning towns such as Gloversville and Johnstown in upstate New York. Deerskin is used in jackets and overcoats, professional sporting equipment for martial arts such as kendo and bogu, as well as high-quality personal accessories like handbags and wallets. It commands a high price due to its relative rarity and proven durability.
• Nubuck is top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface.
There are two other descriptions of leather commonly used in specialty products, such as briefcases, wallets, and luggage.
• Belting leather is a full-grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy-weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather.
• Nappa leather, or Napa leather, is chrome-tanned and is extremely soft and supple and is commonly found in higher quality wallets, toiletry kits, and other personal leather goods.
The following are not ‘true’ leathers, but contain leather material. Depending on jurisdiction, they may still be labeled as “Genuine Leather.”
• Bonded leather , or “reconstituted Leather”, is not really a true leather but a man-made material. Some types of bonded leather are composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers (often scrap from leather tanneries or leather workshops) bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of ‘true’ leather at a fraction of the cost. This bonded leather is not as durable as other leathers, and is recommended for use only if the product will be used infrequently. An example for the use of this type of bonded leather is in Bible covers. The term “bonded leather” when used to describe upholstered furniture is a different product and construction. Bonded leather upholstery is a vinyl upholstery that contains about 17% leather fiber in its backing material. Hence, there is no leather in the surface of this product. The vinyl is stamped to give it a leather-like texture.Bonded leather upholstery is durable and its manufacturing process is more environmentally-friendly than leather production.
• Bycast leather is a split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed. Bycast was originally made for the shoe industry and recently was adopted by the furniture industry. The original formula created by Bayer was strong, but expensive. Most of the Bycast used today is very strong and durable product. The result is a slightly stiffer product that is cheaper than top grain leather but has a much more consistent texture and is easier to clean and maintain.
The vast majority of leather is sold according to its area. The leather is placed through pin-wheel or electronic measuring machines and its surface area is determined. The unit of measurement is square meter, square decimeter or square foot. The thickness is also important, and this is measured using a thickness gauge (the unit of measurement is millimeters, e.g., 1.8 mm is a standard thickness for a school shoe).
In some parts of the world, top-grain thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. The thickness value can be obtained by the conversion: 1 oz/ft² = 1/64 inch (0.4 mm).
Hence, leather described as 7 to 8 oz is 7/64 to 8/64 inches (2.8 to 3.2 mm) thick. The weight is usually given as a range because the inherent variability of the material makes ensuring a precise thickness very difficult. Other leather manufacturers state the thickness directly in millimeters
AKKA Paris Leather Headboard. How is leather made
Saturday, January 16th, 2010Leather is a durable and flexible material created via the tanning of putrescible animal rawhide and skin, primarily cattlehide. It can be produced through different manufacturing processes, ranging from cottage industry to heavy industry.
The leather and the fur industries are differentiated by the manufacturing importance of the raw materials used to make the wares. In the leather industry, the skin and rawhide are by-products of the meat industry, because the meat has greater commercial value than the rawhide and skin. In the fur industry, the meat is a by-product, because the skins and hides have greater commercial value. Moreover, in taxidermy, the raw materials usually are only the animal’s head and back; hide and skin also are the raw materials for manufacturing animal glue and gelatin.
Forms of leather
Several tanning processes transform hides and skins into leather:
• Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin and other ingredients found in vegetable matter, tree bark, and other such sources. It is supple and brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the color of the skin. It is the only form of leather suitable for use in leather carving or stamping. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolor, and if left to soak and then dry it will shrink and become less supple and harder. In hot water, it will shrink drastically and partly gelatinize, becoming rigid and eventually brittle. Boiled leather is an example of this where the leather has been hardened by being immersed in hot water, or in boiled wax or similar substances. Historically, it was occasionally used as armor after hardening, and it has also been used for book binding.
• Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulfate and other salts of chromium. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. It is also known as wet-blue for its color derived from the chromium. More esoteric colors are possible using chrome tanning.
• Aldehyde-tanned leather is tanned using glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds. This is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet-white leather due to its pale cream or white color. It is the main type of “chrome-free” leather, often seen in shoes for infants, and automobiles. Formaldehyde tanning (being phased out due to its danger to workers and the sensitivity of many people to formaldehyde) is another method of aldehyde tanning. Brain-tanned leathers fall into this category and are exceptionally water absorbent. Brain tanned leathers are made by a labor-intensive process which uses emulsified oils, often those of animal brains. They are known for their exceptional softness and their ability to be washed. Chamois leather also falls into the category of aldehyde tanning and like brain tanning produces a highly water absorbent leather. Chamois leather is made by using oils (traditionally cod oil) that oxidize easily to produce the aldehydes that tan the leather to make the fabric the color it is.
• Synthetic-tanned leather is tanned using aromatic polymers such as the Novolac or Neradol types. This leather is white in color and was invented when vegetable tannins were in short supply during the Second World War. Melamine and other amino-functional resins fall into this category as well and they provide the filling that modern leathers often require. Urea-formaldehyde resins were also used in this tanning method until dissatisfaction about the formation of free formaldehyde was realized.
• Alum-tawed leather is transformed using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour and egg yolk. Purists argue that alum-tawed leather is technically not tanned, as the resulting material will rot in water. Very light shades of leather are possible using this process, but the resulting material is not as supple as vegetable-tanned leather.[1]
• Rawhide is made by scraping the skin thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Like alum-tawing, rawhide is not technically “leather”, but is usually lumped in with the other forms. Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather, and is primarily found in uses such as drum heads where it does not need to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching, or for making many varieties of dog chews.
Leather—usually vegetable-tanned leather—can be oiled to improve its water resistance. This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neatsfoot oil or a similar material, keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically.
Leather with the hair still attached is called hair-on.