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AKKA Furniture – Timber selection

Monday, April 26th, 2010

AKKA FURNITURE uses the best timber on all of it’s products. This is how we select and choose our American white oak and walnut timbers.

 

The FAS grade, which derives from an original grade “First And Seconds”, will provide the user with long, clear cuttings – best suited for high quality furniture, interior joinery and solid wood mouldings. Minimum board size is 6″ and wider and 8′ and longer. The FAS grade includes a range of boards that yield from 831⁄3% (10⁄12ths) to 100% clear-wood cuttings over the entire surface of the board. The clear cuttings must be a minimum size of 3″ wide by 7′ long or 4″ wide by 5′ long. The number of these cuttings permitted depends on the size of the board with most boards permitting one to two. The minimum width and length will vary, depending on species and whether the board is green or kiln dried. Both faces of the board must meet the minimum requirement for FAS.

 

FAS One Face (F1F)

 

This grade is nearly always shipped with FAS. The better face must meet all FAS requirements while the poor face must meet all the requirements of the Number 1 Common grade, thus ensuring the buyer with at least one FAS face. Often export shipments are assembled with an

80-20 mix, 80% being the percentage of FAS boards and 20% being the percentage of F1F boards.

These percentages are strictly left to individual buyer and seller agreement.

 

Selects

 

This grade is virtually the same as F1F except for the minimum board size required. Selects allow

boards 4″ and wider and 6′ and longer in length. The Selects grade is generally associated with the northern regions of the USA and is also shipped in combination with the FAS grade.

Often export shipments of upper grades are simply referred to as FAS. The conventional

business practice for American hardwoods is to ship these upper grades in some combination.

Working closely with the supplier will enable the buyer to be sure that the expected quality will be received. Whether FAS is combined with F1F (Face And Better) or Selects (Sel And Better) every board in the shipment must have a minimum of one

 

FAS face

 

Prime grade: This grade has evolved from the NHLA grade of FAS for the export market. It is

square edged and virtually wane free. The minimum clear yield will be select and better with

appearance being a major factor. Minimum size of the boards varies, depending on the species, region, and supplier.

Comsel grade: This grade has evolved from the NHLA grades of Number 1 Common and Selects.

For the export market the minimum clear yield should be Number 1 Common or slightly better

with appearance a main factor. Minimum size of the boards varies, depending on the species,

region and supplier.

Note: The terms Prime and Comsels are not standard NHLA definitions and therefore fall outside

the official range of the NHLA grading rules.

8″

12′

10′

8″

12′

5′ 5′

Note: Minimum yield 831⁄3% clear wood cuttings on the poor face of the board.

 

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Dodgy Divans Part II

Monday, April 19th, 2010

Dodgy Divans Part II
So, seeing as we’re on the subject of divans I might as well get the rest of the moans out of the way. In for a penny, in for a pound I suppose!
The flaw in the plan
Once, as a child, my parents bought me a brand-new bed, yes, a divan. It was a divan with a difference, the top section lifted open on some sort of sprung mechanism which meant that the entire bottom half of the bed could be used as storage. This was just great, providing you were happy for your ten-year-old son to empty his mattress and bedclothes over the floor every time he wanted to get something out!
A major ‘drawer’ back (groan)
So, we learnt from the flip-top bed experience and moved on. The next step was a more sedate approach involving drawers in a divan base, no more mattress slippage! This time, we found that, not only was the space severely limited, but also, the drawer bottoms were flimsy and generally collapsed once a few blankets had been put in – then they were impossible to open, even when you had managed to claw you way through the fabric hell-hole known as a valance (though I think I’ve already bemoaned valances in a previous post)
Let’s take a look at what we could have done (say in the style of Jim Bowen)
Let’s imagine what life would have been like with a lovely wooden bed. Firstly, we could have done away with any need for flip-top or sliding drawer contraptions. As a child, under the bed would have been a great place to stash a giant bag of lego (which I’m reliably told happens every night at legoland, Windsor). But secondly, there is also a great  ‘grown-up’ solution for neat freaks like me. A couple of beautiful wooden underbed drawers on castors would have been perfect. The bottoms are made out of decent timber, which means they don’t sag and collapse. They slide out easily avoiding the flip-top/drawer collapse/valance issues, and finally, they look great. Not only that, if you ever decide to change your bed and if you buy an akka wooden bed, we don’t see why you’d want to) you don’t have to change your storage at the same time. Simples.

 

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Dodgy Divans

Thursday, March 25th, 2010

Looking back the other day through old photographs (when I say old, I mean 1980s old) I noticed just how much home furniture has changed. I’ll be honest with you, my parents still have the wood effect units and melamine wardrobes but most other folk have moved on. The thing I noticed most was the difference in the beds. Every bed in the house was a divan and boy, were they ugly! To make it even worse, they dressed them up in slightly uglier flouncy valances, which seem to defy all laws of taste and interior design decency. Just what were we doing? Instead of a beautiful wooden bed, something which could have defined a room or provided a focal point, we have essentially a wooden box wrapped in fabric. Nothing could more clearly say, ‘this room is not important to me’ more than a divan bed. It seems that bedrooms were just functional; get in, lights off, sleep, wake-up, get dressed, get out! Nowadays bedrooms are where we can wind down, chill-out or lose a Sunday morning. Who would want to do that in a divan when you could be looking at a lovely piece of oiled walnut? I say it’s time for a divan amnesty…without fear of reprise or being mocked by the neighbours we should all be allowed to clear out these sleeping disaster zones once and for all and replace them with something wooden and beautiful!! Come on, chuck ‘em out!!

 

 

 

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Buying Bedroom Furniture

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010

 

We spend about one-third of our life in our bedrooms. It is the place where we sleep at night and the place where we get up in the morning. Majority of our day-to-day activities, right from reading a book to watching TV to sleeping, are carried out in the bedroom only. This makes it only reasonable that we make the room as comfortable as possible. In order to do this, we need to keep a lot of things in mind, selecting the right furniture, going for the perfect draperies and deciding on the most appropriate adornments. Talking about bedroom furniture, it needs to be chosen with great care, keeping in mind the overall home Decor, the particular look that you want for your room, the color of your walls and your budget. At the same time, it needs to impart a cozy ambience to your bedroom.

Before buying furniture for your bedroom, you first need to keep in mind the size of your room. If you put too many or too big furniture items in a small room, you will be left with no walking space and the room will look cluttered. On the other hand, having too few furniture items in a big room will give it an incomplete look. While bed, chairs, dressing table and side table are a must, their size as well as the possibility of putting in more furniture will depend on the length and the width of your bedroom. 


While deciding on the type, quantity as well as the size of your bedroom furniture; keep in mind your needs and not desires. You might want to buy the bed that you saw in a furniture store the other day, mainly because of its looks, but if it doesn’t fulfill your requirements, say of storage, it is better to skip it altogether. In other words, if a simple five drawer chest suits your budget and room size, it is advisable not to go for a double Queen Anne dresser.

While buying bedroom furniture, keep in mind the kind of people who would be using it. If you want furniture for your mind, going for Brazilian rosewood, which looks impressive and also proves durable, is a great idea. However, in case the furniture is meant for your little kid’s room, it is advisable to go for something that is inexpensive, easy-to-replace and not at all delicate.

 
Whenever you go out to buy bedroom furniture, keep in mind that quality matters more than quantity. Furniture is not something that you would want to change every other month (unless and until you are a billionaire). If you want to pass on your bedroom furniture to your children, or even grandchildren, go for something that, although a bit expensive, is durable and will last a long time. In other words, rather than veneers, buy furniture with dovetail edges and real hardwood finishes.

Some More Tips

  • While shopping for bedroom furniture, place a higher importance to comfort than anything else. Remember, you will be spending a major part of your day, and night, in there.
  • Give due importance to fine craftsmanship, as it will ensure durability of your furniture and help you save unnecessary repair expenses.

 

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Dressing tables

Friday, March 5th, 2010

So you’re thinking of purchasing a new dressing table. There are a few things you need to know before you buy to get yourself the best quality and the best deal. And, although you might think dressing tables a luxury, a good one can help reduce bedroom clutter – so they’re actually practical, too!

Dressing rooms are great (just think, a whole space dedicated to grooming and dressing up!) and a functional and fabulous dressing table is a luxury no lady can do without.

Mirrored dressing tables are everywhere at the moment but they are a sexy alternative to some more traditional wooden units. If you do prefer wood, try something like walnut, which will look more retro than rustic.

Not everyone’s a fan of the boudoir look, but dressing tables needn’t be prissy. A well-designed bureau or console – anything that you can tuck your legs underneath and that won’t look too officey – can work just as well, if accessorised properly. A good mirror, comfy chair and tabletop light are an absolute must.

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How to dress your bed.

Thursday, February 25th, 2010

How to Dress a Bed

A bed is the biggest piece of furniture in your bedroom. It’s important that not only is it comfortable to sleep in, but it looks good too. And being so large, a bed also offers a great opportunity to add your identity and make a real style statement. We’ve included some on dressing a bed below to help you when considering what duvet cover, pillow cases, bed throws and cushions to buy for your bed.

Which Duvet Cover?

Below is our choice of the top duvet covers and best deals available at the moment. But there are plenty more duvet covers to choose from. See our sections on different duvet cover colours, sizes and material.

Which colour for the duvet cover?

The great thing about duvet covers is that you can have a few of them and change them regularly. So choosing the colour for bed linen isn’t like choosing the colour to paint your walls – it’s easy to change, and as often as you like too.

Strong, bold colours are quite fashionable these days, such as chocolate brown, rich purple or crimson red. These colours will work fine if you have a larger bedroom. For smaller rooms, these strong colours will be too dominant and make the room seem even smaller. For smaller rooms, it’s best to stick with softer colours. This isn’t to say that it will be boring – quite the opposite once you’ve added cushions and bed throws – but just that a large single block of strong colour in a small room can often be too oppressive and make the room feel smaller.

People like to give a lot of meaning to colours and how they make us feel. Typically red is a passionate colour, brown is earthy, green is natural… But the truth in design terms is that you have to have a bed colour that you can enjoy – not just because it “means” something, but because to you it looks good.

A duvet cover colour should also be a colour that works well with other colours that you might include on your bed, such as bed throws, pillows and cushions. So for example you might want something that contrasts well with the other items of bedding, or complements these other colours. Or perhaps you simply want a paler cream or even white duvet cover that can act as a blank canvas, to be dressed with all sorts of splashes of colour later with some rich and bright cushions and bed throws.

 

 

One way to consider the colours to use for your bed is to choose a “base” colour that you like, for example lilac. Then you can add a variety of colours in a similar vein – some darker, some lighter, some contrasting more strongly – to build up an intricate and colourful picture. 

What about bed throws?

A bed throw is a great way of bringing life and detail to your bed. In fact a good bed throw in the right colour and material can change the bed completely. Consider either complementary or contrasting colours to your duvet cover. Also, give some thought to the kind of material bed throw you want.  Most cotton duvet covers have little texture, so a bed throw is a great chance to add some extra feel to a bed, perhaps with a bed throw in chenille, cashmere, mohair, velvet or even silk, either in a chunky knit or quilted style.

Bed throws are also sometimes known as bed runners or bed spreads. A bed throw is simple to add to your room. Simply lay it across the bed, from side to side rather than top to bottom. Bed throws look best when put across the end of the bed, around three quarters of the way down the bed. You can even add more than one bed throw to bring more layers and texture to your bed.

 

Pillows and Pillow cases

Pillow cases can be very useful to add and develop the overall look of the bed. Many duvet covers come with matching pillow cases (either as a duvet set or to be bought separately). These can be great and suit your needs perfectly, but don’t be afraid to try out colours that contrast with your duvet cover, or at least pillow cases in darker or lighter tones. Many people like 2 pillows, in which case you have 2 opportunities to add more colour to your bed (or 4 opportunities in the case of double beds). So for example, choose a patterned pillow case (striped or floral) to site on top of a plain, darker coloured pillow case. In short, pillows are a great chance to show your design skills, so don’t just opt for the obvious, matching duvet and pillow case set.

 

Bed Cushions

Although you probably won’t sleep on them, cushions can be great to add more interest to a bed. Pillows will do this, of course, but cushions can be more interesting by coming in different shapes and sizes to the pillows. Plus, a few more cushions means that extra colour, shape and even texture will come further down the bed. Why leave a large flat space between the pillows and the end of the bed when there are so many great pillows and bed throws to be used!

Many of the bed linen retailers are aware how popular cushions in the bedroom are these days and offer a great choice in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and in a range of colours and materials to suit all tastes.

 

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Wardrobes

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Tips on Wooden Wardrobes and Cupboard Designs

A bedroom wardrobe

or a cupboard is the second most priority after bed. In fact, cupboard designs are given more attention in the room’s layout or bedroom remodeling than even beds. The wooden cupboard with traditional doors are still there in spite of large number of people going for modern cupboards with sliding doors and walk in wardrobes though the designs for such cupboards have undergone tremendous changes. All said and done, modern wooden wardrobe is a representation of beauty. However, if the functionality of the wardrobe is not kept in consideration, the purpose is lost. If you are up to a custom wardrobe, here are some tips to properly design your wardrobe and closets.

  • The traditional door wardrobes have multiple doors. Use this space by having storage solutions behind each wardrobe door. It can be anything from rails to drawers and shelves.
  • For the main section of cupboards, combine all- long drop rails, short drops, drawers and shelves of different widths and heights according to your requirements. For example, if you wear jeans all the time, then get more shelves than hanging space and if you mostly wear long dresses, then go for more hanging spaces.
  • If you are fond of collecting footwear, get more shelves at lower part. You can even go for sliding shoe trays that can hold many pairs of shoes per shelf.
  • Get handy sized drawers for your different storage needs – from jewelery to sweaters, blankets or bed linen. Keep the blanket drawer enough deep to store the things properly. If you like to collect watches, get a drawer of appropriate size with divisions.
  • If you opt for sliding door wardrobe, then match the interior segments to the number of sliding doors. For example, three doors should have three or two interior segments to ensure easy opening of all the drawers.
  • You can make the closets and wardrobes more beautiful transforming them into a mirror wall by using sliding mirrored doors. It will also save space that could have taken by the dressing table.
  • Ensure that the slider mechanism works properly. A sliding door which comes off its tracks is a pain.
  • If you prefer a walk-in wardrobe, keep the point number two in view and combine the hanging spaces, shelves and drawers as per your needs.
  • Allow at least a meter from the ground for hanging jackets otherwise your clothes will keep dragging along the floor and collect dust.
  • Try not to cover the clothes rails and shelves with doors in the walk-in wardrobes. These wardrobes are quite small rooms. If you have to open doors you will make the space more small. Instead of having doors, keep it open and dust regularly.

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How to make the most of your bedroom

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

With the addition of televisions, desks and exercise equipment to bedrooms, there is a greater constraint on available space in the room.  There are many creative solutions to dealing with a lack of space. When planning your bedroom, it is important to maximize the space you have to deal with. Whether you just have a lot of stuff or your room is small, creative organizing will help to make the most of the room you have.

 

There are many ways to save space simply by the calculated positioning of your bed in the room.  In a limited space, one idea is to shift your bed lengthwise against a wall to create a daybed, thus allowing extra room for more furniture, like a coffee table or some chairs.

 

In a small space, prioritize the pieces of furniture for the room.  By deciding what’s more important, whether it’s a big impressive bed or a lot of space for storage, the room is better able to fit your specific needs.  For example, if you’re a person who has a lot of books or videotapes that you wish to keep in your room, a good solution would be finding a bedside table that also serves as a bookshelf.

 

If extra shelves are not needed, but drawer space is using a small chest of drawers for a bedside table could also be a good solution. Using that specific piece of furniture as a table and either shelves or drawers to store things, the potential of the space is maximized.

 

Storage can also be accomplished by a large chest at the end of the bed for example a blanket box, which could also serve as a place to sit with the simple addition of a cushion. Underneath the bed is also a storage place that should not be overlooked for underbed drawers which could help free up more space within the room for other things.

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Wooden Bedslats

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

Bed slats may need to be replaced after a few years of using a bed. When bed slats are not purchased from a bedding store, they may be cut from lumber available at most local home centers. It is less expensive to cut new bed slats from inexpensive lumber than to purchase bed slats from a bedding store.

 

1.                 Bed slats may be cut from ¾ inches by 3 ½ inches lumber , which is available from most major home center stores. Do not use wood that is thinner than ¾ inches since it will not be thick enough to provide the support required for the box spring. Wood that is thicker than ¾ inches may be used for beds that require additional support based on the weight of the occupant of the bed. Wood that is less than 3 ½ inches wide may be used for bed slats. However, position the bed slats so there is ½ inches less room between the slats than the slats are wide. For example, 3 ½-inch bed slats should be spaced no more than 3 inches apart for proper support of the box spring. Measure the width of the bed and choose wood that is longer than the width of the bed and cut to size.

Species

2.                 Pine, cherry, mahogany or any species of wood can be used for bed slats. Pine is the least expensive. However, the species of wood chosen for bed slats may be chosen to match the wood the bed is made from.

Finish

3.                 Select wood that has been sanded or sand the wood to reduce splinters. The splinters may cut the fabric lining on the bottom of the box spring which can allow dust mites, fleas or other undesirable pests access to the inside of the box spring. The wood that is used for bed slats does not have to be stained or sealed buy you may finish the wood to match the bed. Be sure the finish is thoroughly dry before installing the new bed slats.

Placement

4.                 If the wood chosen for bed slats has a bow, or curve, place the curve so the high side is up. The weight of the box spring and mattress will help to push the curve down. If the curve is placed so the new slat dips, there will be less support and more strain on the box spring.

 

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The history of sandpaper and how it is made

Friday, January 29th, 2010

History
The first recorded instance of sandpaper was in 13th century China when crushed shells, seeds, and sand were bonded to parchment using natural gum.
Shark skin was also used as a sandpaper. The rough scales of the living fossil Coelacanth are used by the natives of Comoros as sandpaper.[citation needed]
Sandpaper was originally known as glass paper, as it used particles of glass. Glass frit has sharp-edged particles and cuts well, sand grains are smoothed down and did not work as well as glass. Cheap counterfeit sandpaper has long been passed off as true glass paper; Stalker and Parker cautioned against it as far back as the 17th century.[1]
Glass paper was manufactured by John Oakey’s company in London by 1833, who had developed new adhesive techniques and processes that could be mass-produced. A process for making sandpaper was patented in the United States on June 14, 1834 by Isaac Fischer, Jr., of Springfield, Vermont.

In 1916, 3M invented a type of sandpaper with a waterproof backing, known as Wetordry. This allowed use with water as a lubricant, and to carry about particles that would otherwise clog the finest grades. Its first application was for automotive paint refinishing.
Sandpaper has occasionally been used as a surface for painting, as by Joan Miró. Sandpaper was even used as a musical instrument, in Leroy Anderson’s Sandpaper Ballet.
Boiled and dried, the rough horsetail is used in Japan as a traditional polishing material, finer than sandpaper.

Types of sandpaper.
There are countless varieties of sandpaper, with variations in the paper or backing, the material used for the grit, grit size, and the bond.

Backing
In addition to paper, backing for sandpaper includes cloth (cotton, polyester, rayon), PET film, and “fibre” ,or rubber. Cloth backing is used for sandpaper discs and belts, while mylar is used as backing with extremely fine grits. Fibre or vulcanized fibre is a strong backing material consisting of many layers of polymer impregnated paper. The weight of the backing is usually designated by a letter. For paper backings, the weight ratings range from “A” to “F,” with A designating the lightest and F the heaviest. Letter nomenclature follows a different system for cloth backings, with the weight of the backing rated J, X, Y , T, and M, from lightest to heaviest. A flexible backing allows sandpaper to follow irregular rounded contours of a given workpiece; relatively inflexible backing is optimal for regular rounded or plane surfaces. Sandpaper backings may be glued to the paper or form a separate support structure for moving sandpaper, such as used in sanding belts and discs. Stronger paper or backing increases the ease of sanding wood, so decent quality sand paper is much better than low cost and low quality sandpaper. The harder the backing material is behind the sandpaper, the faster the sanding, the faster the wear of the paper and the rougher the sanded surface.

Material
Materials used for the abrading particles are:

  • flint: no longer commonly used
  • garnet: commonly used in woodworking
  • emery: commonly used to abrade or polish metal
  • aluminium oxide: perhaps most common in widest variety of grits; can be used on metal (i.e. body shops) or wood
  • silicon carbide: available in very coarse grits all the way through to microgrits, common in wet applications
  • alumina-zirconia: (an aluminium oxide–zirconium oxide alloy), used for machine grinding applications
  • chromium oxide: used in extremely fine micron grit (micrometre level) papers
  • ceramic aluminum oxide: used in high pressure applications, used in both coated abrasives, as well as in bonded abrasives.

As well, sandpaper may be “stearated” where a dry lubricant is loaded to the abrasive. Stearated papers are useful in sanding coats of finish and paint as the stearate “soap” prevents clogging and increases the useful life of the sandpaper. Aluminium Oxide with stearate is also known as PS33, a Klingspor Abrasives product. The harder the grit material, the easier the sanding of surfaces like wood. The grit material for polishng granite slab has to be harder than granite.
Innovative abrading surfaces now include long-life stainless steel sanding discs.

Bonds
Different adhesives are used to bond the abrasive to the paper. Hide glue is still used, but this paper often cannot withstand the heat generated when machine sanding and is not waterproof. Waterproof or wet/dry sandpapers use a resin bond and a waterproof backing.
Sandpapers can also be open coat, where the particles are separated from each other and the sandpaper is more flexible. This helps prevent clogging of the sandpaper. The wet and dry sandpaper is best used when wet and when using material like acrylic where it leaves a nice smooth feel afterwards.

Shapes
Sandpaper comes in a number of different shapes and sizes.

  • sheet: usually 9 by 11 inches, but other sizes may be available
  • belt: usually cloth backed, comes in different sizes to fit different belt sanders.
  • disk: made to fit different models of disc and random orbit sanders. May be perforated for some models of sanders. Attachment includes Pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) and “hook-and-loop” (similar to velcro).
  • rolls: known as “Shag Rolls” by many contractors

Grit sizes
Grit size refers to the size of the particles of abrading materials embedded in the sandpaper. A number of different standards have been established for grit size. These standards establish not only the average grit size, but also the allowable variation from the average. The two most common are the United States CAMI (Coated Abrasive Manufacturers Institute, now part of the Unified Abrasives Manufacturers’ Association) and the European FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) “P” grade. The FEPA system is the same as the ISO 6344 standard. Other systems used in sandpaper include the Japan Industrial Standards Committee (JIS), the micron grade (generally used for very fine grits). The “ought” system was used in the past in the United States. Also, cheaper sandpapers sometimes are sold with nomenclature such as “Coarse”, “Medium” and “Fine”, but it is not clear to what standards these names refer.

Grit size table
The following table, compiled from the references at the bottom, compares the CAMI and “P” designations with the average grit size in micrometres (µm).
Grit size table
ISO/FEPA Grit designation CAMI Grit designation Average particle diameter (µm)
MACROGRITS
Extra Coarse (Very fast removal of material, hardwood flooring initial sanding) P12 1815
P16 1324
P20 1000
P24 764
24 708
P30 642
30 632
36 530
P36 538
Coarse (Rapid removal of material) P40 40 425
50 348
P50 336
Medium (sanding bare wood in preparation for finishing, for gentle removal of varnish) 60 265
P60 269
P80 201
80 190
Fine (sanding bare wood in preparation for finishing, not suitable for removing varnish or paint from wood, use for cleaning plaster and water stain from wood) P100 162
100 140
P120 125
120 115
Very Fine (sanding of bare wood) P150 100
150 92
P180 180 82
P220 220 68
MICROGRITS
Very Fine (sanding finishes between coats) P240 58.5
240 53.0
P280 52.2
P320 46.2
P360 40.5
Extra fine, start polishing

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