Buying Bedroom Furniture

March 10th, 2010

 

We spend about one-third of our life in our bedrooms. It is the place where we sleep at night and the place where we get up in the morning. Majority of our day-to-day activities, right from reading a book to watching TV to sleeping, are carried out in the bedroom only. This makes it only reasonable that we make the room as comfortable as possible. In order to do this, we need to keep a lot of things in mind, selecting the right furniture, going for the perfect draperies and deciding on the most appropriate adornments. Talking about bedroom furniture, it needs to be chosen with great care, keeping in mind the overall home Decor, the particular look that you want for your room, the color of your walls and your budget. At the same time, it needs to impart a cozy ambience to your bedroom.

Before buying furniture for your bedroom, you first need to keep in mind the size of your room. If you put too many or too big furniture items in a small room, you will be left with no walking space and the room will look cluttered. On the other hand, having too few furniture items in a big room will give it an incomplete look. While bed, chairs, dressing table and side table are a must, their size as well as the possibility of putting in more furniture will depend on the length and the width of your bedroom. 


While deciding on the type, quantity as well as the size of your bedroom furniture; keep in mind your needs and not desires. You might want to buy the bed that you saw in a furniture store the other day, mainly because of its looks, but if it doesn’t fulfill your requirements, say of storage, it is better to skip it altogether. In other words, if a simple five drawer chest suits your budget and room size, it is advisable not to go for a double Queen Anne dresser.

While buying bedroom furniture, keep in mind the kind of people who would be using it. If you want furniture for your mind, going for Brazilian rosewood, which looks impressive and also proves durable, is a great idea. However, in case the furniture is meant for your little kid’s room, it is advisable to go for something that is inexpensive, easy-to-replace and not at all delicate.

 
Whenever you go out to buy bedroom furniture, keep in mind that quality matters more than quantity. Furniture is not something that you would want to change every other month (unless and until you are a billionaire). If you want to pass on your bedroom furniture to your children, or even grandchildren, go for something that, although a bit expensive, is durable and will last a long time. In other words, rather than veneers, buy furniture with dovetail edges and real hardwood finishes.

Some More Tips

  • While shopping for bedroom furniture, place a higher importance to comfort than anything else. Remember, you will be spending a major part of your day, and night, in there.
  • Give due importance to fine craftsmanship, as it will ensure durability of your furniture and help you save unnecessary repair expenses.

 

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Dressing tables

March 5th, 2010

So you’re thinking of purchasing a new dressing table. There are a few things you need to know before you buy to get yourself the best quality and the best deal. And, although you might think dressing tables a luxury, a good one can help reduce bedroom clutter - so they’re actually practical, too!

Dressing rooms are great (just think, a whole space dedicated to grooming and dressing up!) and a functional and fabulous dressing table is a luxury no lady can do without.

Mirrored dressing tables are everywhere at the moment but they are a sexy alternative to some more traditional wooden units. If you do prefer wood, try something like walnut, which will look more retro than rustic.

Not everyone’s a fan of the boudoir look, but dressing tables needn’t be prissy. A well-designed bureau or console - anything that you can tuck your legs underneath and that won’t look too officey - can work just as well, if accessorised properly. A good mirror, comfy chair and tabletop light are an absolute must.

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How to dress your bed.

February 25th, 2010

How to Dress a Bed

A bed is the biggest piece of furniture in your bedroom. It’s important that not only is it comfortable to sleep in, but it looks good too. And being so large, a bed also offers a great opportunity to add your identity and make a real style statement. We’ve included some on dressing a bed below to help you when considering what duvet cover, pillow cases, bed throws and cushions to buy for your bed.

Which Duvet Cover?

Below is our choice of the top duvet covers and best deals available at the moment. But there are plenty more duvet covers to choose from. See our sections on different duvet cover colours, sizes and material.

Which colour for the duvet cover?

The great thing about duvet covers is that you can have a few of them and change them regularly. So choosing the colour for bed linen isn’t like choosing the colour to paint your walls - it’s easy to change, and as often as you like too.

Strong, bold colours are quite fashionable these days, such as chocolate brown, rich purple or crimson red. These colours will work fine if you have a larger bedroom. For smaller rooms, these strong colours will be too dominant and make the room seem even smaller. For smaller rooms, it’s best to stick with softer colours. This isn’t to say that it will be boring - quite the opposite once you’ve added cushions and bed throws - but just that a large single block of strong colour in a small room can often be too oppressive and make the room feel smaller.

People like to give a lot of meaning to colours and how they make us feel. Typically red is a passionate colour, brown is earthy, green is natural… But the truth in design terms is that you have to have a bed colour that you can enjoy - not just because it “means” something, but because to you it looks good.

A duvet cover colour should also be a colour that works well with other colours that you might include on your bed, such as bed throws, pillows and cushions. So for example you might want something that contrasts well with the other items of bedding, or complements these other colours. Or perhaps you simply want a paler cream or even white duvet cover that can act as a blank canvas, to be dressed with all sorts of splashes of colour later with some rich and bright cushions and bed throws.

 

 

One way to consider the colours to use for your bed is to choose a “base” colour that you like, for example lilac. Then you can add a variety of colours in a similar vein - some darker, some lighter, some contrasting more strongly - to build up an intricate and colourful picture. 

What about bed throws?

A bed throw is a great way of bringing life and detail to your bed. In fact a good bed throw in the right colour and material can change the bed completely. Consider either complementary or contrasting colours to your duvet cover. Also, give some thought to the kind of material bed throw you want.  Most cotton duvet covers have little texture, so a bed throw is a great chance to add some extra feel to a bed, perhaps with a bed throw in chenille, cashmere, mohair, velvet or even silk, either in a chunky knit or quilted style.

Bed throws are also sometimes known as bed runners or bed spreads. A bed throw is simple to add to your room. Simply lay it across the bed, from side to side rather than top to bottom. Bed throws look best when put across the end of the bed, around three quarters of the way down the bed. You can even add more than one bed throw to bring more layers and texture to your bed.

 

Pillows and Pillow cases

Pillow cases can be very useful to add and develop the overall look of the bed. Many duvet covers come with matching pillow cases (either as a duvet set or to be bought separately). These can be great and suit your needs perfectly, but don’t be afraid to try out colours that contrast with your duvet cover, or at least pillow cases in darker or lighter tones. Many people like 2 pillows, in which case you have 2 opportunities to add more colour to your bed (or 4 opportunities in the case of double beds). So for example, choose a patterned pillow case (striped or floral) to site on top of a plain, darker coloured pillow case. In short, pillows are a great chance to show your design skills, so don’t just opt for the obvious, matching duvet and pillow case set.

 

Bed Cushions

Although you probably won’t sleep on them, cushions can be great to add more interest to a bed. Pillows will do this, of course, but cushions can be more interesting by coming in different shapes and sizes to the pillows. Plus, a few more cushions means that extra colour, shape and even texture will come further down the bed. Why leave a large flat space between the pillows and the end of the bed when there are so many great pillows and bed throws to be used!

Many of the bed linen retailers are aware how popular cushions in the bedroom are these days and offer a great choice in all sorts of shapes and sizes, and in a range of colours and materials to suit all tastes.

 

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Wardrobes

February 22nd, 2010

Tips on Wooden Wardrobes and Cupboard Designs

A bedroom wardrobe

or a cupboard is the second most priority after bed. In fact, cupboard designs are given more attention in the room’s layout or bedroom remodeling than even beds. The wooden cupboard with traditional doors are still there in spite of large number of people going for modern cupboards with sliding doors and walk in wardrobes though the designs for such cupboards have undergone tremendous changes. All said and done, modern wooden wardrobe is a representation of beauty. However, if the functionality of the wardrobe is not kept in consideration, the purpose is lost. If you are up to a custom wardrobe, here are some tips to properly design your wardrobe and closets.

  • The traditional door wardrobes have multiple doors. Use this space by having storage solutions behind each wardrobe door. It can be anything from rails to drawers and shelves.
  • For the main section of cupboards, combine all- long drop rails, short drops, drawers and shelves of different widths and heights according to your requirements. For example, if you wear jeans all the time, then get more shelves than hanging space and if you mostly wear long dresses, then go for more hanging spaces.
  • If you are fond of collecting footwear, get more shelves at lower part. You can even go for sliding shoe trays that can hold many pairs of shoes per shelf.
  • Get handy sized drawers for your different storage needs - from jewelery to sweaters, blankets or bed linen. Keep the blanket drawer enough deep to store the things properly. If you like to collect watches, get a drawer of appropriate size with divisions.
  • If you opt for sliding door wardrobe, then match the interior segments to the number of sliding doors. For example, three doors should have three or two interior segments to ensure easy opening of all the drawers.
  • You can make the closets and wardrobes more beautiful transforming them into a mirror wall by using sliding mirrored doors. It will also save space that could have taken by the dressing table.
  • Ensure that the slider mechanism works properly. A sliding door which comes off its tracks is a pain.
  • If you prefer a walk-in wardrobe, keep the point number two in view and combine the hanging spaces, shelves and drawers as per your needs.
  • Allow at least a meter from the ground for hanging jackets otherwise your clothes will keep dragging along the floor and collect dust.
  • Try not to cover the clothes rails and shelves with doors in the walk-in wardrobes. These wardrobes are quite small rooms. If you have to open doors you will make the space more small. Instead of having doors, keep it open and dust regularly.

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How to make the most of your bedroom

February 18th, 2010

With the addition of televisions, desks and exercise equipment to bedrooms, there is a greater constraint on available space in the room.  There are many creative solutions to dealing with a lack of space. When planning your bedroom, it is important to maximize the space you have to deal with. Whether you just have a lot of stuff or your room is small, creative organizing will help to make the most of the room you have.

 

There are many ways to save space simply by the calculated positioning of your bed in the room.  In a limited space, one idea is to shift your bed lengthwise against a wall to create a daybed, thus allowing extra room for more furniture, like a coffee table or some chairs.

 

In a small space, prioritize the pieces of furniture for the room.  By deciding what’s more important, whether it’s a big impressive bed or a lot of space for storage, the room is better able to fit your specific needs.  For example, if you’re a person who has a lot of books or videotapes that you wish to keep in your room, a good solution would be finding a bedside table that also serves as a bookshelf.

 

If extra shelves are not needed, but drawer space is using a small chest of drawers for a bedside table could also be a good solution. Using that specific piece of furniture as a table and either shelves or drawers to store things, the potential of the space is maximized.

 

Storage can also be accomplished by a large chest at the end of the bed for example a blanket box, which could also serve as a place to sit with the simple addition of a cushion. Underneath the bed is also a storage place that should not be overlooked for underbed drawers which could help free up more space within the room for other things.

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Wooden Bedslats

February 10th, 2010

Bed slats may need to be replaced after a few years of using a bed. When bed slats are not purchased from a bedding store, they may be cut from lumber available at most local home centers. It is less expensive to cut new bed slats from inexpensive lumber than to purchase bed slats from a bedding store.

 

1.                 Bed slats may be cut from ¾ inches by 3 ½ inches lumber , which is available from most major home center stores. Do not use wood that is thinner than ¾ inches since it will not be thick enough to provide the support required for the box spring. Wood that is thicker than ¾ inches may be used for beds that require additional support based on the weight of the occupant of the bed. Wood that is less than 3 ½ inches wide may be used for bed slats. However, position the bed slats so there is ½ inches less room between the slats than the slats are wide. For example, 3 ½-inch bed slats should be spaced no more than 3 inches apart for proper support of the box spring. Measure the width of the bed and choose wood that is longer than the width of the bed and cut to size.

Species

2.                 Pine, cherry, mahogany or any species of wood can be used for bed slats. Pine is the least expensive. However, the species of wood chosen for bed slats may be chosen to match the wood the bed is made from.

Finish

3.                 Select wood that has been sanded or sand the wood to reduce splinters. The splinters may cut the fabric lining on the bottom of the box spring which can allow dust mites, fleas or other undesirable pests access to the inside of the box spring. The wood that is used for bed slats does not have to be stained or sealed buy you may finish the wood to match the bed. Be sure the finish is thoroughly dry before installing the new bed slats.

Placement

4.                 If the wood chosen for bed slats has a bow, or curve, place the curve so the high side is up. The weight of the box spring and mattress will help to push the curve down. If the curve is placed so the new slat dips, there will be less support and more strain on the box spring.

 

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The history of sandpaper and how it is made

January 29th, 2010

History
The first recorded instance of sandpaper was in 13th century China when crushed shells, seeds, and sand were bonded to parchment using natural gum.
Shark skin was also used as a sandpaper. The rough scales of the living fossil Coelacanth are used by the natives of Comoros as sandpaper.[citation needed]
Sandpaper was originally known as glass paper, as it used particles of glass. Glass frit has sharp-edged particles and cuts well, sand grains are smoothed down and did not work as well as glass. Cheap counterfeit sandpaper has long been passed off as true glass paper; Stalker and Parker cautioned against it as far back as the 17th century.[1]
Glass paper was manufactured by John Oakey’s company in London by 1833, who had developed new adhesive techniques and processes that could be mass-produced. A process for making sandpaper was patented in the United States on June 14, 1834 by Isaac Fischer, Jr., of Springfield, Vermont.

In 1916, 3M invented a type of sandpaper with a waterproof backing, known as Wetordry. This allowed use with water as a lubricant, and to carry about particles that would otherwise clog the finest grades. Its first application was for automotive paint refinishing.
Sandpaper has occasionally been used as a surface for painting, as by Joan Miró. Sandpaper was even used as a musical instrument, in Leroy Anderson’s Sandpaper Ballet.
Boiled and dried, the rough horsetail is used in Japan as a traditional polishing material, finer than sandpaper.

Types of sandpaper.
There are countless varieties of sandpaper, with variations in the paper or backing, the material used for the grit, grit size, and the bond.

Backing
In addition to paper, backing for sandpaper includes cloth (cotton, polyester, rayon), PET film, and “fibre” ,or rubber. Cloth backing is used for sandpaper discs and belts, while mylar is used as backing with extremely fine grits. Fibre or vulcanized fibre is a strong backing material consisting of many layers of polymer impregnated paper. The weight of the backing is usually designated by a letter. For paper backings, the weight ratings range from “A” to “F,” with A designating the lightest and F the heaviest. Letter nomenclature follows a different system for cloth backings, with the weight of the backing rated J, X, Y , T, and M, from lightest to heaviest. A flexible backing allows sandpaper to follow irregular rounded contours of a given workpiece; relatively inflexible backing is optimal for regular rounded or plane surfaces. Sandpaper backings may be glued to the paper or form a separate support structure for moving sandpaper, such as used in sanding belts and discs. Stronger paper or backing increases the ease of sanding wood, so decent quality sand paper is much better than low cost and low quality sandpaper. The harder the backing material is behind the sandpaper, the faster the sanding, the faster the wear of the paper and the rougher the sanded surface.

Material
Materials used for the abrading particles are:

  • flint: no longer commonly used
  • garnet: commonly used in woodworking
  • emery: commonly used to abrade or polish metal
  • aluminium oxide: perhaps most common in widest variety of grits; can be used on metal (i.e. body shops) or wood
  • silicon carbide: available in very coarse grits all the way through to microgrits, common in wet applications
  • alumina-zirconia: (an aluminium oxide–zirconium oxide alloy), used for machine grinding applications
  • chromium oxide: used in extremely fine micron grit (micrometre level) papers
  • ceramic aluminum oxide: used in high pressure applications, used in both coated abrasives, as well as in bonded abrasives.

As well, sandpaper may be “stearated” where a dry lubricant is loaded to the abrasive. Stearated papers are useful in sanding coats of finish and paint as the stearate “soap” prevents clogging and increases the useful life of the sandpaper. Aluminium Oxide with stearate is also known as PS33, a Klingspor Abrasives product. The harder the grit material, the easier the sanding of surfaces like wood. The grit material for polishng granite slab has to be harder than granite.
Innovative abrading surfaces now include long-life stainless steel sanding discs.

Bonds
Different adhesives are used to bond the abrasive to the paper. Hide glue is still used, but this paper often cannot withstand the heat generated when machine sanding and is not waterproof. Waterproof or wet/dry sandpapers use a resin bond and a waterproof backing.
Sandpapers can also be open coat, where the particles are separated from each other and the sandpaper is more flexible. This helps prevent clogging of the sandpaper. The wet and dry sandpaper is best used when wet and when using material like acrylic where it leaves a nice smooth feel afterwards.

Shapes
Sandpaper comes in a number of different shapes and sizes.

  • sheet: usually 9 by 11 inches, but other sizes may be available
  • belt: usually cloth backed, comes in different sizes to fit different belt sanders.
  • disk: made to fit different models of disc and random orbit sanders. May be perforated for some models of sanders. Attachment includes Pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA) and “hook-and-loop” (similar to velcro).
  • rolls: known as “Shag Rolls” by many contractors

Grit sizes
Grit size refers to the size of the particles of abrading materials embedded in the sandpaper. A number of different standards have been established for grit size. These standards establish not only the average grit size, but also the allowable variation from the average. The two most common are the United States CAMI (Coated Abrasive Manufacturers Institute, now part of the Unified Abrasives Manufacturers’ Association) and the European FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) “P” grade. The FEPA system is the same as the ISO 6344 standard. Other systems used in sandpaper include the Japan Industrial Standards Committee (JIS), the micron grade (generally used for very fine grits). The “ought” system was used in the past in the United States. Also, cheaper sandpapers sometimes are sold with nomenclature such as “Coarse”, “Medium” and “Fine”, but it is not clear to what standards these names refer.

Grit size table
The following table, compiled from the references at the bottom, compares the CAMI and “P” designations with the average grit size in micrometres (µm).
Grit size table
ISO/FEPA Grit designation CAMI Grit designation Average particle diameter (µm)
MACROGRITS
Extra Coarse (Very fast removal of material, hardwood flooring initial sanding) P12 1815
P16 1324
P20 1000
P24 764
24 708
P30 642
30 632
36 530
P36 538
Coarse (Rapid removal of material) P40 40 425
50 348
P50 336
Medium (sanding bare wood in preparation for finishing, for gentle removal of varnish) 60 265
P60 269
P80 201
80 190
Fine (sanding bare wood in preparation for finishing, not suitable for removing varnish or paint from wood, use for cleaning plaster and water stain from wood) P100 162
100 140
P120 125
120 115
Very Fine (sanding of bare wood) P150 100
150 92
P180 180 82
P220 220 68
MICROGRITS
Very Fine (sanding finishes between coats) P240 58.5
240 53.0
P280 52.2
P320 46.2
P360 40.5
Extra fine, start polishing

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Leather Types

January 24th, 2010

Leather types
In general, leather is sold in four forms:
• Full-grain leather refers to the upper section of a hide that previously contained the epidermis and hair, but were removed from the hide/skin. Full-grain refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed, or snuffed (as opposed to top-grain or corrected leather) in order to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The grain remains in its natural state allowing the best fiber strength and durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in less moisture from prolonged contact. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural patina over time, with some cracking and splitting. The finest leather furniture and footwear are made from full-grain leather. For these reasons, only the best raw hide is used to create full-grain leather. One way to test if leather is full-grain is to lightly scratch its surface with your nail. If it leaves a lighter-colored streak, it’s full-grain. Full-grain leathers are typically available in two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline.
• Top-grain leather is a misnomer: it gives the false impression that it is “top” quality. In fact, full-grain is the highest quality. Top-grain leather is the second-highest quality. Its surface has been sanded and refinished. As a result, it has a colder, plastic feel, less breathability, and will not develop a natural patina. However, it does have 2 advantages over full-grain leather: it is typically less expensive, and has greater resistance to stains.
• Corrected-grain leather is any leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface. The hides used to create corrected leather are of inferior quality that do not meet the high standards for use in creating vegetable-tanned or aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected and an artificial grain applied. Most corrected-grain leather is used to make pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.
• Split leather is leather created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the top-grain of the rawhide has been separated from the hide. During the splitting operation, the grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides, the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain (Bycast leather). Splits are also used to create suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is “fuzzy” on both sides. Manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede from full-grain. For example, in one operation, leather finish is applied to one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo is one of the trade names for this product. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not a true form of suede.
The International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemist Societies has a glossary of leather terms that can be found at IULTCS.
Other less-common leathers include:
• Buckskin or brained leather is a tanning process that uses animal brains or other fatty materials to alter the leather. The resulting supple, suede-like hide is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting.
• Patent leather is leather that has been given a high-gloss finish. The original process was developed in Newark, New Jersey, by inventor Seth Boyden in 1818. Patent leather usually has a plastic coating.
• Shagreen is also known as stingray skin/leather. Applications used in furniture production date as far back as the art deco period. The word “shagreen” originates from France and is commonly confused with a shark skin and stingray skin combination.
• Vachetta leather is used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags, popularized by Louis Vuitton. The leather is left untreated and is therefore susceptible to water and stains. Sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade, called a patina.
• Slink is leather made from the skin of unborn calves. It is particularly soft, and is valued for use in making gloves.
• Deerskin is one of the toughest leathers, partially due to adaptations to their thorny and thicket filled habitats. Deerskin has been prized in many societies including indigenous Americans. Most modern deer skin is no longer procured from the wild, with deer farms breeding the animals specifically for the purpose of their skins. Large quantities are still tanned from wild deer hides in historic tanning towns such as Gloversville and Johnstown in upstate New York. Deerskin is used in jackets and overcoats, professional sporting equipment for martial arts such as kendo and bogu, as well as high-quality personal accessories like handbags and wallets. It commands a high price due to its relative rarity and proven durability.
• Nubuck is top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface.
There are two other descriptions of leather commonly used in specialty products, such as briefcases, wallets, and luggage.
• Belting leather is a full-grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy-weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather.
• Nappa leather, or Napa leather, is chrome-tanned and is extremely soft and supple and is commonly found in higher quality wallets, toiletry kits, and other personal leather goods.
The following are not ‘true’ leathers, but contain leather material. Depending on jurisdiction, they may still be labeled as “Genuine Leather.”
• Bonded leather , or “reconstituted Leather”, is not really a true leather but a man-made material. Some types of bonded leather are composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers (often scrap from leather tanneries or leather workshops) bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of ‘true’ leather at a fraction of the cost. This bonded leather is not as durable as other leathers, and is recommended for use only if the product will be used infrequently. An example for the use of this type of bonded leather is in Bible covers. The term “bonded leather” when used to describe upholstered furniture is a different product and construction. Bonded leather upholstery is a vinyl upholstery that contains about 17% leather fiber in its backing material. Hence, there is no leather in the surface of this product. The vinyl is stamped to give it a leather-like texture.Bonded leather upholstery is durable and its manufacturing process is more environmentally-friendly than leather production.
• Bycast leather is a split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface and then embossed. Bycast was originally made for the shoe industry and recently was adopted by the furniture industry. The original formula created by Bayer was strong, but expensive. Most of the Bycast used today is very strong and durable product. The result is a slightly stiffer product that is cheaper than top grain leather but has a much more consistent texture and is easier to clean and maintain.
The vast majority of leather is sold according to its area. The leather is placed through pin-wheel or electronic measuring machines and its surface area is determined. The unit of measurement is square meter, square decimeter or square foot. The thickness is also important, and this is measured using a thickness gauge (the unit of measurement is millimeters, e.g., 1.8 mm is a standard thickness for a school shoe).
In some parts of the world, top-grain thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. The thickness value can be obtained by the conversion: 1 oz/ft² = 1/64 inch (0.4 mm).
Hence, leather described as 7 to 8 oz is 7/64 to 8/64 inches (2.8 to 3.2 mm) thick. The weight is usually given as a range because the inherent variability of the material makes ensuring a precise thickness very difficult. Other leather manufacturers state the thickness directly in millimeters

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AKKA Paris Leather Headboard. How is leather made

January 16th, 2010

Leather is a durable and flexible material created via the tanning of putrescible animal rawhide and skin, primarily cattlehide. It can be produced through different manufacturing processes, ranging from cottage industry to heavy industry.
The leather and the fur industries are differentiated by the manufacturing importance of the raw materials used to make the wares. In the leather industry, the skin and rawhide are by-products of the meat industry, because the meat has greater commercial value than the rawhide and skin. In the fur industry, the meat is a by-product, because the skins and hides have greater commercial value. Moreover, in taxidermy, the raw materials usually are only the animal’s head and back; hide and skin also are the raw materials for manufacturing animal glue and gelatin.
Forms of leather
Several tanning processes transform hides and skins into leather:
• Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin and other ingredients found in vegetable matter, tree bark, and other such sources. It is supple and brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the color of the skin. It is the only form of leather suitable for use in leather carving or stamping. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolor, and if left to soak and then dry it will shrink and become less supple and harder. In hot water, it will shrink drastically and partly gelatinize, becoming rigid and eventually brittle. Boiled leather is an example of this where the leather has been hardened by being immersed in hot water, or in boiled wax or similar substances. Historically, it was occasionally used as armor after hardening, and it has also been used for book binding.
• Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulfate and other salts of chromium. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. It is also known as wet-blue for its color derived from the chromium. More esoteric colors are possible using chrome tanning.
• Aldehyde-tanned leather is tanned using glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds. This is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet-white leather due to its pale cream or white color. It is the main type of “chrome-free” leather, often seen in shoes for infants, and automobiles. Formaldehyde tanning (being phased out due to its danger to workers and the sensitivity of many people to formaldehyde) is another method of aldehyde tanning. Brain-tanned leathers fall into this category and are exceptionally water absorbent. Brain tanned leathers are made by a labor-intensive process which uses emulsified oils, often those of animal brains. They are known for their exceptional softness and their ability to be washed. Chamois leather also falls into the category of aldehyde tanning and like brain tanning produces a highly water absorbent leather. Chamois leather is made by using oils (traditionally cod oil) that oxidize easily to produce the aldehydes that tan the leather to make the fabric the color it is.
• Synthetic-tanned leather is tanned using aromatic polymers such as the Novolac or Neradol types. This leather is white in color and was invented when vegetable tannins were in short supply during the Second World War. Melamine and other amino-functional resins fall into this category as well and they provide the filling that modern leathers often require. Urea-formaldehyde resins were also used in this tanning method until dissatisfaction about the formation of free formaldehyde was realized.
• Alum-tawed leather is transformed using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour and egg yolk. Purists argue that alum-tawed leather is technically not tanned, as the resulting material will rot in water. Very light shades of leather are possible using this process, but the resulting material is not as supple as vegetable-tanned leather.[1]
• Rawhide is made by scraping the skin thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Like alum-tawing, rawhide is not technically “leather”, but is usually lumped in with the other forms. Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather, and is primarily found in uses such as drum heads where it does not need to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching, or for making many varieties of dog chews.
Leather—usually vegetable-tanned leather—can be oiled to improve its water resistance. This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neatsfoot oil or a similar material, keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically.
Leather with the hair still attached is called hair-on.

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Wooden Dowels Used By Cabinet Makers

January 3rd, 2010

Wood dowels are cylindrical pieces of wood that can be used in woodworking, crafts and other pursuits as pegs, axles and support rods. Available in a variety of diameters and length, dowels can be bought ready-made, or you may make them yourself.
Shapes and Sizes
1. Wooden dowels are not tapered; rather, they are the same diameter along their entire length, although the ends may receive special treatment. Dowels range from as much as 3 inches in diameter down to an eighth of an inch. Thicker dowels are more expensive than thin ones.

Dowels usually are sold in 3-foot lengths at hardware stores and home centers, although manufacturers produce longer dowels, up to 12 feet in length.
Common dowel diameters are a quarter inch, three-eighths of an inch, and a half inch.
Dowels in Joinery
2. Dowels are often used as pegs to join two pieces of wood. After selecting a dowel of the appropriate diameter, the woodworker drills two holes of a similar size, one in each of the wood pieces to be joined. After checking for fit, the woodworker puts glue on the dowel and inserts it into one hole. Then, after applying glue to the other end of the dowel, the woodworker slides the dowel into the corresponding hole on the other wooden piece. Any excess glue is wiped off.
Dowels provide strong joints between wooden pieces without the use of screws or nails. When used by a skillful woodworker, dowels can help create an apparently solid slab of wood out of many individual pieces.
Other Uses
3. Besides joinery, dowels can also be used for trim, either by being cut in half and attached or by being laid in a groove cut by a special jig.
Outside the wood shop, dowels are used in crafts. They can serve as axles in wooden toys or be turned into knitting needles. They may serve as the blanks out of which an artisan carves chess pieces. Inserted through the layers, dowels provide internal support for multitier cakes.
What Are Dowels Made Of?
4. Just about any kind of wood can be used to make a dowel. Hardwood dowels—made of walnut, oak, or maple—are common, because hardwoods are stronger and less apt to snap than a softwood, such as pine or spruce. You can buy dowels made of poplar, hickory, ash, beech and even mahogany.
Some manufacturers offer custom-made dowels created from exotic woods, such as olive, plum, rosewood or holly.
Special Treatments
5. Dowels may be sold as simple cylinders, known as square cut dowels. However, special treatments are available. You may purchase a dowel with rounded, tapered or pointed ends. A chamfered end is similar to a square cut, only the edges of the dowel’s end have been sanded so they are angled. End-bored dowels have a hole bored in the end. A tenoned dowel has a tenon at one end and a mortise on the other, allowing them to be fit together.
Short dowels intended to be used in joinery may be either spiral grooved or fluted (grooved from end to end) to provide extra surface area for the glue.
Making Dowels
6. Some woodworkers choose to make their own dowels. To cut a long dowel rod, they would place a piece of wood stock into a lathe and use a chisel or a router to trim the stock to the proper diameter.
Another way to make short dowels to is use a tool called a dowel plate. The woodworker roughs out a piece of stock and then pounds it through the chosen hole in the plate. The sharp edges of the hole cut the dowel to the precise diameter. This allows the woodworker to use short pieces of wood that might otherwise be wasted.
However, industrial dowel-making machines are more suited for producing a lot of dowels. A dowel-making machine uses cutting heads of various sizes, depending on the diameter of the dowel being produced. The cutting heads can be switched out when a different sized dowel is to be cut.
To cut very large numbers of dowels, manufacturers use machines called wood shapers. Wood shapers are similar to routers, but instead of one bit they use cutting heads above and below the wood. Each head forms half the dowel.

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